Getting to know Nice – Day 239 – Apr 29, 2026

I wake up early, again, it’s a pattern. But it’s also our first morning in Nice, and I am super excited to head out to the closest bakery, they have been open for a couple of hours already! They open at 4am, I’m practically late waking up at 6.30am. Maylin came in to our bedroom at some point in the night, so I leave her and Joe sleeping. As I step out into the hallway, Téa pokes her head up from the blankets and wants to come with. So I wait for her, and we head out together.

It takes a full two minutes to walk from our front door to the bakery, and we are welcomed by a smiling lady who patiently helps me with my French as we choose our foods. We ask for a yogurt something with raspberries on top, and are told it’s a berry tiramisu. I ask if it’s appropriate for breakfast, and the lady smiles big saying “Oui, bien sur!”. We also grab a baguette, a croissant for Joe, an almond croissant for a treat, and Téa wants a slice of a pizza looking thing (we later discovered that it is a pissaladiere, a soft fluffy flatbread with various toppings, a speciality from Nice).

Half way home, right around the corner from both the bakery and the AirBnb, we found a butcher, and I pop my head in. They have all sorts of meat and patés, along with a cheese section and all the rest of what a butcher shop has. I learn the French word for Guinea Fowl this morning (pintade), and contemplate buying an entire rabbit, but not really. I do buy a giant slab of brie and a duck paté terrine for Joe.

Who needs a bread knife when a steak knife is all you have in the AirBnb? Baguette, brie and a sweet treat, my ideal breakfast.
Maylin’s tiramisu was delicious, if a bit sweet. Joe enjoyed his croissant, but had to have some of my baguette with his terrine.
Does this look like a happy girl, or what? Her pissaladiere was great!

After breakfast, we get ready and head out to explore the city of Nice. There’s a view point by the beach we’d like to get to, and there’s a market down by the waterfront. When we round the corner, Maylin says “Look Mom, there’s a Ferris wheel!”. This is what she was looking at:

She’s right, it’s a meat Ferris wheel!

We walk down through the Old Town, it’s a bit chilly in the early hours, but we get a good look around. We discover that there are some beautiful buildings hidden between the narrow alleys, and are shocked that we didn’t see this one yesterday:

I have a theory: the gelato place is directly across from this beautiful church, so of course our focus was on our frozen treats… We are in front of Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate de Nice, and we take a peek inside. It’s beautiful!

When we a few steps later discover a tiny coffee roaster and tea shop, we head in for a warm beverage. Téa wanted her chocolate iced, Joe got an americano, and I had a smoky Lapsang Souchong tea. This tea is a rare find, and I’m so glad they had it here!

Cheers!

We make it back down towards the waterfront, where the restaurants have retreated and there are vendor booths filling the streets. There’s fruits, fish, vegetables and honey, nuts, flowers, more flowers, pasta, dried mushrooms, sundried and grilled eggplant slices (for rehydration and cooking, they say), and so much more.

I love me a local farmer’s market!
We buy some refreshing watermelon to snack on.
Then we see this lady, with a pancake of some sort and a huge line up. We line up too, we have no idea what she’s selling.
Maylin orders and pays.
Socca is apparently the number 1 local speciality that you have to try while you are here, which we didn’t find out until much later. Our noses are apparently just adept at finding unique delicacies, who needs a guide book?

Socca is a pancake made from chickpeas, salt and oil. That’s it! It’s fried flat in enormous cast iron pans, and only on one side. This lady’s colleague had a heated storage cart, so whenever she ran out of socca, he would take away the empty tray and replace it with a new one. The pancake is then cut into large slices, then cut into squares for easier eating on the go. I don’t think we’ll get another portion, it wasn’t mind blowingly good, and there are so many delicious things to eat here!

We have walked through the entire market, so now we head down to the beach. It’s very windy. A couple of people are swimming, and our girls are practicing throwing rocks into the ocean. I think the goal is to learn how to skip stones, but as you can see from her throwing technique, Maylin also just loved the big splashes of throwing rocks into the water.

It’s a great beach for playing and walking and looking, but doesn’t look very easy to get in and out of the water. The structures in the background are the beginning of Castle Hill, we’ll be at the far right in a moment, and then up to the middle round building after that.

I stand and watch as an older gentleman is trying to get out of the water. There’s a steep little hill of pebbles he has to climb up, and he eventually gets down on hands and knees just to get back up onto the beach. I don’t think we’ll be testing these waters, this time.

We walk all the way over towards the Nice sign, this is the start of the beach area in Nice. There are lots of tourists milling about, and we wait our turn to take our picture by the sign. In the meanwhile, might as well do a family photo with the beach in the background.

Sometimes we get it right, sometimes we get it just almost right.
There’s also a sundial here, but it does not work. I’m sure the instructions on the plaques explain how to do it right, but we don’t have the patience to try it out.
A friendly lone tourist takes our picture at the sign, and Joe returns the favour for him.
Then we start the climb. It’s hot and it’s steep. There are a lot of steps here!
Midway view reward.
We only go about half way up. This is that round building from my earlier photo. There is another at least as many steps to go up to the very top, but it’s not for us, not today. Téa went straight for the shade, Maylin drained my water bottle, and Joe is enjoying the view.
It’s spectacular up here!
One set of stairs down, we stop for another family photo, when we don’t have the sun in our eyes.

Back down from our view climb, we are now on the hunt for lunch. We decide to walk back into Old Town, to see what we can find.

It is absolutely the most charming little Old Town, milling with tourists, but also with locals.
We end up at an Italian restaurant, and the girls both pick penne with pesto for their kid’s meal.
Joe picks the burrata caprese salad, which comes with a pizza base to mop up the cheese and juices. I ordered a Nicoise salad, and got a Caesar. Joe and I swapped half way through the meal.

On our way back to the AirBnb from lunch, we took a different route, and found this pretty overhang:

So colourful!

We headed home to relax for a bit, Joe and the girls watched a movie while I blogged. Then, we went back out for an evening walk, for a little bit of sightseeing before dinner. We were aiming for the harbour with the yachts, having read about both the pier and the start of the walking path to the next town over.

Maylin wanted a snack as we headed out the door, so we grabbed the rest of this morning’s baguette. With her striped t-shirt, is this not the most French thing you ever saw?
On our walk, we were walking next to this steep cement wall, and it reminded me of the ones in Hong Kong. Only, this one had little “caves”, one occupied by a pigeon.
Our walk took us to the other side of Castle Hill. This is the long pier that shields the harbour, with the lighthouse at the tip. The pier was not very walkable, with tall fences on both sides, so we opted not to go out there.
The beautiful Monument aux Morts de Rauba-Capeù, honoring local citizens killed during WWII. Castle Hill on top.
This fun silver monument is called Un Dimanche à Nice, “A Sunday in Nice”.
Ah, so THIS is where I parked my dinghy…
On our way back to Old Town, I took a detour to take a picture of this statue from the front. We’d seen only just the back of this a couple of times, so never really knew what it even looked like. Place Giuseppe Garibaldi deserves a front view.

We headed back into the heart of Old Town for dinner, and found a charming restaurant called Restaurant La Claire Fontaine, right in front of the fountain at Place Rosetti.

Téa picked the chicken nuggets with fries option on the kids’ menu.
Maylin’s kids’ menu pizza was large.
Joe went different tonight, and had the duck. It came with fries. What is it with French people and their fries?
I chose the octopus in tomato sauce, with ratatouille and rice. It sounds a whole lot more exciting than it was, unfortunately. The octopus and ratatouille were good, the rice was laughable.

And just like that, our first full day in Nice was over. Tomorrow will be very different, we’re hopping on a train in the morning!

2 thoughts on “Getting to know Nice – Day 239 – Apr 29, 2026

  1. The sea walk reminded me of the malecón in Puerto Vallarta. Even the type of seashore is similar.

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